Belleville - North-east Paris

"On the steps of this house was born .... Edith Piaf ...." Not really, true as she was born in the hospital up the road but why let reality shine on a great story. She did grow up in Belleville and she sang and spoke the French language of this area, a Parisian Cockney. This language is largely gone.

The suburb today is still strongly working class and populated with immigrants. Also the Parisian avant garde is located here - artists and musicians - attracted by cheaper rents, numerous vacant large spaces and old Paris charm of smaller streets.

Finally the weather has turned cold and wet. Outdoor cafes are shielded by clear plastic walls, the street people have moved residence to live over the metro grates. Heated by the hot air pushed upwards by the trains as they pass below.

Rue Montorgueil

My fourth week begins to a cooler day and everyone back at work where they belong.

Lunched in rue Montorgueil, a trendy pedestrianised street in the 2nd arrondissement. It is lined with famous restaurants, little cafes, bakeries, fishmongers, cheese shops, wine shops, produce stands and flower shops and is one of the best places to watch cool Parisians in their natural habitat.

Followed this up with a visit to Jardin les Plantes, the local botanic gardens, and the zoo. This has been restocked after nearly all the animals were eaten by Parisians during the Seige of Paris in 1870. The little kangaoroos looked so far from home.